On the
morning of 30 May 1867 a young German businessman,
Heinrich Ruete, arrived in Aden by sea from Zanzibar.
That same morning in Christ Church, Steamer Point, he
married Saline bint Sa’id who had been baptised in the
name of Emily Sa’id Ruete immediately before the
marriage service. In the afternoon the couple set sail
for Hamburg with their infant son who had been born in
Aden the previous December.
Saline hint Sa’id was the daughter of Sultan
Sa’id bin Sultan, Ruler of Oman and Zanzibar
(1804-1856) and the creator of an African commercial
empire which stretched from Mogadishu to Mozambique. She
was born in Zanzibar in 1844 of a Circassian slave
mother who died in a cholera epidemic when Saline was
fifteen. Saline then went to live with an elder
half-sister, Khole, under whose influence she played a
minor role in an abortive plot led by Sayyid Barghash to
supplant his (and their) half-brother, Sayyid Majid, as
Ruler of Zanzibar. After a period of ostracism which she
spent in one or other of the plantations inherited from
her father, Saline made her peace with Sayyid Majid and
in 1866, now aged 22, returned to the capital where, as
she recorded in her memoirs years later, ‘I made the
acquaintance of my future husband. My house was next to
his; the flat roof of his house was a little lower than
my own. He held his dinner parties in a room opposite to
where I could watch them; for he knew that this display
of a European festivity must be very interesting to me.
Our friendship from which in time sprang love, was soon
known in the town ...’
Writing of Heinrich Ruete at this time, the acting
British Consul in Zanzibar, Dr Edwin Seward, described
him as ‘a person of about eight and twenty summers,
the son of a respectable German schoolmaster, [who]
began life in the office of a Hamburg merchant,
completed his training for the East Coast traffic in
Zanzibar... and subsequently became the head ... of the
modest yet flourishing house of Ruete & Co. He has
been adequately educated, speaks fluently ... French and
English, besides his native German, is an intelligent
and able man of business, and has borne a character for
a very blameless life, at least so far as is known in
Zanzibar’.
Since their child was born in December 1866,
Saline’s pregnancy would have been noticeable by
August of that year; and the normal consequence of such
a liaison in a strictly Muslim society would have been
stoning to death. Heinrich Ruete made arrangements to
smuggle Saline out of the country on board a German
vessel, the Mathilde, but at the last moment one
of Saline’s slaves revealed her intentions and the
attempt was frustrated. However, on the night of 24
August, through the good offices of Mrs Seward, wife of
the Acting British Consul, and Dr John Kirk, the British
Agency Surgeon, Saline was taken aboard HMS Highflyer,
which happened to be in harbour, and escaped to
Aden. Commenting on the incident in a letter to his
fiancee, Dr Kirk wrote, ‘[Captain] Pasley has taken
off poor Bibi Saline in his ship. She’d have been
killed, I think, sooner or later, had she remained... I
am told she got into the cutter, taking down all her
boxes of dollars safely and springing into the boat,
although it was manned by infidels. Her two servants,
who knew nothing of the affair, screamed, howled, and
roared, as women will do; but a bluejacket covered the
mouth of one and lifted her nolens volens, to
follow her mistress. The other unluckily got clear away,
bellowing up the street ...’
Sayyid Majid wrote a letter of protest to the British
Consul, but readily accepted Seward’s assurance that
Captain Pasley had not informed him of his intentions.
It was only a formal protest sent out of deference to
public opinion, for the Sultan was privately relieved
that he would not be obliged to act against a favourite
sister to avenge the tarnished honour of their family.
Saline spent the next nine months in Aden waiting for
Heinrich Ruete to wind up his affairs in Zanzibar and
join her. She stayed with a Spanish couple named Mass
whom she had known in Zanzibar; Bonaventura Mass had
been involved in the slave trade and had had to leave
Zanzibar in a hurry. In November of that year the
Political Resident in Aden reported: ‘Every effort has
been made to induce the Bibi Suleyma [Saline] to quit
her present quarters and adopt a more secluded life. But
I regret without avail: indeed I have endeavoured to
work upon the lady’s feelings through the most
respectable Arab families residing in Aden (that of the
Aidroos and others) and have offered her a private
apartment and establishment, but the Bibi seems
determined to adhere to the step she has taken and to
renounce her former life entirely and become
Europeanised. To use her own words, she cannot, she
says, after wearing the dress of Europeans revert to
Arab dress, nor will she certainly for the present quit
Mr Mass’ house...
|
Princess Salme bint Sa'id
before her marriage |
About two months before she sailed for Hamburg,
Saline attended a public concert in Aden whose organiser
had sent her a complimentary programme printed on silk
with a covering letter addressed to ‘Her Royal
Highness the Princess of Zanzibar’. She took these
with her to Hamburg and kept them until her death (as
she did a miniature Qur’an brought from Zanzibar) as a
memento of the life which she had left behind.
Christ Church, where Saline was baptised and married
in her adopted name of Emily, had been built with funds
raised by public subscription and was consecrated in
1862. One of the first subscribers had been Queen
Victoria whose eldest daughter, the future Empress of
Germany, was later to befriend Saline in Europe.
Witnesses to the marriage service on 30 May 1867 were
the British Political Resident in Aden, Colonel W L.
Merewether, and Colonel (later Sir) Robert Playfair, a
former Assistant Resident in Aden, who served as Consul
in Zanzibar 1862-67. The latter’s brother, Sir Lyon
(later Lord) Playfair, Deputy Speaker of the House of
Commons, showed Saline great kindness during her first
visit to London in 1875; although she was not personally
known to him, he and his wife insisted on accommodating
her and did all they could to enlist official and public
sympathy for her cause.
During their three years of domestic happiness in
Hamburg before Heinrich Ruete’s untimely death in a
tram accident, Saline did her utmost to adapt herself to
her very changed surroundings. In Zanzibar she had
maintained a large household of domestic slaves and
other attendants, and had been treated with all the
deference due to a member of the ruling family But being
married to a businessman in the vast city of Hamburg
meant a complete and shattering break with the past. She
was sustained in her early widowhood at the age of
twenty-six, and through financial and other
tribulations, by her strength of character and her
devotion to her three children (two daughters having
been born to her in Hamburg). When she reached Aden in
late August 1866, she had donned European attire but to
the very end of her life she retained and treasured an
Arab dress which she had been wearing at the time of her
ffight from Zanzibar.
Saline never accepted the legal consequences under
Islamic law of her apostasy, namely the automatic
forfeiture of all rights to property and inheritance in
Zanzibar; and for much of her life she campaigned
directly and through intermediaries, in many different
quarters, for the restitution of these ‘rights’. In
1875 she went to England in the hope of achieving a
reconciliation with Sultan Barghash (who had succeeded
Sayyid Majid in 1870) during his state visit to Britain
that year; but, despite pressure from Saline’s many
influential friends and sympathisers, including members
of the British Royal Family, Barghash continued to
refuse to discuss her case or to have any contact with
her.
German ambitions to seize control of the Zanzibar
mainland in ‘the scramble for Africa’ made Bismarck
receptive to Saline’s requests for German support.
Saline’s son, Rudolph Said-Ruete, was being educated
at the expense of Emperor Wilhelm 1, and the possibility
of installing a German-born Sultan in Zanzibar, if
Sultan Barghash refused to yield to German demands,
seemed well worth considering. Saline pressed Bismarck
to arrange for her to return to Zanzibar under German
protection and finally, after much delay, she and her
three children boarded a German naval vessel, the Adler
at Port Said in July 1885. They spent five days in
Aden at the Hotel de L’Europe during the voyage. The Adler
reached Zanzibar on 3 August but did not drop anchor
until the arrival of five German men-of-war a few days
later. Saline and her children spent ten days on shore,
but Sultan Barghash refused to acknowledge her
existence. Meanwhile, German negotiations to establish a
protectorate over the Zanzibar mainland (Tanganyika)
were going well, and Saline’s presence was now seen as
a potential embarrassment to German interests. She was
prevailed upon to return to Europe and to seek
compensation in lieu of her claims (which she personally
assessed at £20,000). Despite British and German
representations following her departure, the Sultan
refused to offer more than a token sum of 6,000 rupees (£500)
which Saline declined to accept. Barghash died in March
1888 and Saline decided to return once more to Zanzibar
to make a personal appeal to his successor, Sayyid
Khalifa bin Sa’id. Accompanied by a daughter, she
arrived at Zanzibar in May, staying at the German
Hospital. When her letters to Khalifa elicited no reply,
she contacted Colonel Euan Smith who had replaced Kirk
as Consul-General. Smith recorded:
‘Madame Ruete, who was dressed in mourning, and in
the height of European fashion, spoke in broken, but
very intelligible English ... she informed me that she
had spent and risked almost everything in coming to
Zanzibar, in the hope of obtaining something from His
Highness … Her chief desire was to be reconciled with
the Arab members of her family, with the ladies of which
she was in constant and daily correspondence. They were
all willing to receive her, and she would like to remain
with her family in Zanzibar (though, in reply to a query
of mine … she stated that nothing would ever induce
her to enter a harem again). Madame Ruete finished by
asking whether she could be received as an English
subject under the protection of Her Majesty’s Agent
and Consul-General’.
On 4 October 1888, Saline sailed away from the land
of her birth for the last time and empty-handed. Her
remaining years were spent in restless wandering and for
a time she lived in Beirut. In 1890 she was back in
London trying to enlist the support of English friends.
On this occasion she stayed with the widow of General
Rigby (who had served in Zanzibar and had, together with
his young wife, visited Heinrich and Emily Ruete in
Hamburg). Recalling Saline’s visit in 1890, Rigby’s
daughter wrote, ‘I remember her well — a devoted
mother before everything, charming, pretty, worn,
fragile, pathetic, always an exile in spirit, always a
princess in the gentle dignity with which she bore
herself’.
The total collapse of the mark after the first world
war left Saline seriously impoverished. By then she was
in her seventies and the sole survivor of her father’s
many children. News of her plight, and the death of the
generation which had known her in Zanzibar, finally led
Sultan Khalifa bin Harub to grant her in 1922 a (modest)
civil list pension. She lived little more than a year to
enjoy this before her death at Jena in February 1924. In
1929 a biography of her renowned father was published in
London, written by her son, Rudolph Said-Ruete, with a
foreword by Sir Percy Cox who had served as Consul in
Muscat at the turn of the century. Rudolph dedicated the
book to the memory of his mother who had, as he put it,
‘fulfilled a great mission by a life that proved to
the West the noble qualities of the Womanhood of the
East’.
Saline’s own book, Memoirs of an Arabian
Princess, was first published in German in 1886.
English editions issued in London and New York in 1888,
and a French translation followed in 1905. In his
introduction to the 1980 English reprint, Dr G. S. P
Freeman-Grenville described the work as unique in the
literature of the Arabs: ‘After nearly a century this
book retains all its charm and freshness … Saline was
the first Arab woman to write an autobiography, even if
she wrote it in German … no other Arab princess had
ever given an account of her youth, or the court where
she was brought up … In our times the emancipation of
women is commonplace. In nineteenth century Europe it
was a rarity. Among Muslims it was all but unthinkable.
In her emancipation she was ahead of her time.’
We are indebted to Mr Sa’id el-Glieithy, Founding
Director of the Princess Saline Institute in London and
Zanzibar, for drawing the Society’s attention to
Sayyida Saline’s links with Aden, and to the
Institute’s plans to organise a travelling exhibition
to commemorate her life and writings. This is due to
open in Zanzibar in July 2000 and to be shown in London
next spring.
Further information about the cultural activities of
the Institute may be obtained from Mr Said el-Gheithy,
Princess Saline Institute, 38 King Street, Covent
Garden, London WC2E 8J5 (Tel/Fax: 020 7240 0199).
July 2000