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Book
review
Yemen: Travels
in Dictionary Land
Tim Mackintosh-Smith
There is, of course, a longish and
well-established tradition of Englishmen writing about Arabia, and much of it is in a
similar vein. Take a romanticisation of the noble bedu, add a sense of the
spiritual cleanliness of the desert, throw in a dash of half-acknowledged sexual ambiguity
and voila! - there is your cocktail, and a pretty unpalatable one it can be
too.
Fortunately, Tim Mackintosh-Smiths book is not like that at
all. True, he has his prejudices- the dour Saudi, the impossibly polite
Levantine and - a recurring theme, this one, - the smug Egyptian. And
like so many of the Englishmen who have engaged with the peninsula, Mackintosh-Smith
manages more or less to ignore the female of the species (there is a rather self-conscious
and unconvincing apologia for this near the beginning of the book). But by and large,
Travels in Dictionary Land is a compelling account of life in contemporary
Yemen through the eyes of a foreigner who has decided to make the place his home. As
Mackintosh-Smith himself says, the book is unfashionably digressive, but
therein lies perhaps the most endearing of its various qualities.
It helps that the writer has so much promising material to deal
with. For this is of course the upland other Arabia, away from the deserts and
motorways and camels and shopping malls of Saudi Arabia and the Gulf. Without being for a
moment in any way patronising, he makes it clear on every page that he is very fond of
Yemen and the Yemenis - as well he might be. He is clearly a qabili by
instinct, much happier walking in the Wadi Surdud than drinking beer in Aden, but he is
naturally generous and his descriptions, while retaining a healthy sense of the
ridiculous, are never small-minded or carping.
Mackintosh-Smith lives in Sanaa, so it is appropriate that
his Yemeni progress both starts and ends here. On both occasions, qat is much in evidence
(in the end, though, the question of its desirability and permissibility revolves
around matters of politics, taste, ethnocentrism and sectarian prejudice - which
sums up the issue pretty neatly in my view). But the greater part of the book consists of
set-piece excursions (or diversions), which taken as a whole give a remarkably full
picture of Yemen and its diversity, both now and in the past. Mackintosh-Smith has a good
sense of history, and learning worn lightly is another of the qualities that give the book
its shape and depth. He takes us gently by the hand through the quasi-mythological
genealogies of the Arabs in general and the Yemenis in particular (and I defy even the
most battle-scarred Arabist of the old school to take the end of Muhammad al-Hajaris
Compendium in his or her stride: ... Now, this Shayban married three
wives: Mihdad the daughter of Humran ibn Bishr ibn Amr bin Murthad, who bore him Yazid;
Akrashah the daughter of Hajib ibn Zurarah ibn Adas, who bore him al-Mamur; and
Amrah the daughter of Bishr ibn Amr ibn Adas who bore him al-Maqad ... etc, etc).
Then, we are introduced by way of Baraqish and the Marib dam to
the complexity of Yemens pre-Islamic history, which even if it did not quite
encompass the Yemeni state in Tibet claimed by Nashwan ibn Said, certainly achieved
a remarkable degree of organisation and sophistication before the Roman mercantile fleet
succeeded where Aelius Galluss legion had failed and diverted the great overland
Arabian incense routes, precipitating a decline that culminated in the bursting of the dam
and the demise of al-Qalis, the great Sanaa Cathedral whose site can
still be seen in the souq. And next, the crucial role played by Yemeni warriors in the
first breathtaking expansion of Islam, intermingling with the Berbers of North Africa and
bringing down Visigothic Spain before briefly occupying Bordeaux.
Interwoven with this historical tale - the first arrival of the
Ottomans, impressions recorded by the occasional European visitor - are visits to
Saada, the architects city, where in the qat souq the writer, the
qat merchant and a local Jew get down to the ancient rivalry of the People of the
Book- trying to get the best price, and to Shahara, where he encounters German
tourists, fashionably weathered by a life of smart travel destinations (would
the author prefer his tourists unfashionable, or does he disapprove in principle, in which
case what exactly is he?), and to Jabal Raymah, where he catches perfectly that
exhilarating Yemeni experience of walking through clouds, and where he drinks a can of
ginger beer- Flavoured with chemicals resulting from decades of research, packed in
al-Hudaydah under franchise from a German firm in a can made from the product of a Latin
American bauxite mine, furnished with a ring-pull that was the chance brainchild of a
millionaire inventor, and brought here by truck, and then donkey, for my delectation, it
wasnt nearly as refreshing as the qishr- but then doubtless those
Yemenis in Bordeaux encountered some fairly complicated cultural and commercial
cross-fertilisations too along the way.
If all this seems slightly incoherent or out of control, it
isnt. It is merely, as said, digressive. Mackintosh-Smith is skilled at taking a
place or an event and using it as a peg on which to hang all manner of fascinating and
improbable detail. A visit to Wadi Dahr is the occasion, naturally enough, for a brief
history of and meditation on the gorgeous and disorderly Imamate and its
overthrow (while he is doubtless an impeccable Sanaani in all other respects, I
suspect Mackintosh-Smith harbours a certain romantic sympathy, and I would not want to put
it any stronger, for these intriguing if bloodstained despots). Gradually, the outside
world began to intrude. The author relates the reaction of a Court historian, one
Ismail al-Washali: "Some (new inventions) he was able to see for himself, like
the telegraph, which on one occasion brought word of the destruction, by a comet, of two
cities of India whose people are infidels. They are cities of Amrika in the land of the
Franks. The wireless telegraph arrived soon after: al-Washali suggests that it works
by means of mirrors ... Other inventions are reported second-hand, like the land
steamer on the Hejaz Railway, and the steamer which flies in the air-
two were brought down during fighting between the Ottomans and the British near Aden,
perhaps with a magnet." Here, we have the fascinating and authentic voice
of one civilisation encountering another, of worlds in collision.
Interestingly, perhaps, given his particular affection for the
mountainside tribal culture of northern Yemen, Mackintosh-Smith has particularly
interesting things to say about the two places in Yemen perhaps most remote from it, and
by no means only in the geographical sense: the Hadhramawt and Socotra. The Hadhramawt,
with its palazzos of the merchant sayyids, its lore of
priapic-Oedipal activities and with the cities of the imagination,
Ad and Thamud, just beyond, is generally acknowledged to be a place that gets under
ones skin, but here one senses that Mackintosh-Smith is a visitor too, which is not
the case in most of the other parts of Yemen he describes. And this is even more the case
in Socotra, scarcely less remote than Waq Waq, the Arab Ultima Thule; a
fabulous island of dragons and phoenixes and weird plants and trees that the British
apparently once considered as an adjunct to the Jewish state in Palestine. Nominally
Christian for several centuries in the past and briefly occupied by the Portuguese (the
writer meets a woman unveiled and handsome in a strikingly Iberian way - the sort of
woman you might run into in a smart Lisbon department store) and now claimed by
whatever currently passes for the government of Somalia, Socotra is in every sense the end
of Yemen, both in fact and in the authors mind.
Travels in Dictionary Land is therefore not merely a book about
Yemen, but about how one person has come to find contentment there, despite the
vicissitudes of civil war and violence, and despite those aspects of daily life in Yemen
which make one realise how precarious life itself can be. That is why it does not actually
matter a great deal whether anyone has ever really called Tim Mackintosh-Smith
Sheikh of the Nazarenes, or even whether he really did come across a young boy
in the Sanaa souq wearing his own old prep school blazer, complete with tell-tale
inkstain on the inside pocket. These stories feel right, which speaks for itself.
Reviewed by Dominic Simpson
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