Yemen Q & A - answers

Our thanks to the readers who answered the questions below. Anyone who wishes to add to the answers, or contradict them, is welcome to do so.

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Can anyone provide contact details for the Sana'a Institute for the Arabic Language, which I understand was opened recently by Muhammed al-Anisi, who used to be the director at CALES?

From: Josh Cates
The home page for the Sana'a Institue for the Arabic Language can be found at http://www.sialyemen.com. It contains all the contact details.

We may be moving to Sana'a at the end of this year and I need some information about English-speaking international schools. Are there any in Sana'a and what are their fees?

From: Mustapha Noman
There are two international schools in Sana’a. Both are expensive: one is US$8,000 and the other is US$5,000.

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Is it possible to cross the Red Sea from Yemen to Eritrea by boat, and if so, from where? What about to Djibouti, Somalia and Sudan?

From: Mustapha Noman
Yes it is possible to do that from either Aden or Mocha ports.

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I desperately need a recipe for salta, Yemen's national food. Please HELP IF
YOU CAN!!

The Yemen Times has published an article about this popular dish, which includes a recipe: http://www.yementimes.com/00/iss35/culture.htm#2

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I am an American citizen (a woman) and very much in love with a man who is from Yemen and is in the United States with me right now. We would like to get married but do not have everyone's blessings. His mom says it's OK but his uncle, who is like the leader of the family, is very upset by this. No one will go against the uncle and give him permission. My fiance does not have any kind of identification and we have been asking them to send us some but they won't. He will be going back to Yemen to renew his visa again - his uncle is sending for him. Do you feel if he goes back they will have an arranged marriage for him there? Does he have to marry that person even if he will be 21 soon? Does age even matter? Does he even have a say in what he wants to do with his life? I am heartbroken because it seems that I will never be accepted. Can anyone help me?

From: Nidhal "Nick" Tayeb
Your fiance is a man that is living dual cultures, i.e. Yemeni and American. If he acts like a child, then his uncle will make his future. In fairness, his uncle really thinks he is doing the best for his nephew. But tell your fiance to be a man.

From: Muhammad Amrani
Just get married, nothing will happen. Plus it's highly advised that he doesn't go back to Yemen.

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We are interested to import seafood products from Yemen, especially blue swimming crab. Can anyone provide the address, name, phone numbers, email address, etc, of companies dealing in these items?

From: Muhammad Amrani
I will be able to help you with this. Please email me what you need.

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Where can I get the best deal on air tickets from USA to Yemen?

From: Mazen
Probably Ethiopian Airlines. They have a round trip from New York for about $900.

From: Lzalwazir@aol.com
Saudi Arabian Airlines offers Washington/New York to Sana'a L Class fare for about $1,150. Delta and Yemenia offer a similar fare through London

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Is it possible to rent for a short period (i.e. 2 or 3 weeks) apartments or houses in Sana'a? If yes, are they all-furnished and what are their facilities (bed linens, towels, fully equipped kitchenette, TV, etc...) and could you please indicate the rates? Could you please provide addresses of agencies for that?

From: Mazen
There are plenty of apartments. You're looking at anywhere from $20 -$70 a night depending on availability, location and standard.

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I was planning to attend a four-week course in Arabic language in Sana'a. I had heard and read about the kidnappings in some provinces. It was my understanding that the main target for this kind of practice were mainly group of tourists or high-ranking foreign officers. The hostages were being kept by local tribes which required some social services in exchange. Normally, the hostages were freed unharmed. Until the events of December 1998 where four people lost their lives.

Today I read the news about the Norwegian man shot dead near Sana'a. The people who kidnapped him could not have possibly known that he was an embassy officer (his post was in Zambia). When he was kidnapped, he was not travelling in some of the more dangerous areas of the country, but he was walking in the centre of Sana'a. This means that the basis for his kidnapping was merely the fact that he was a foreigner.

If this is the case, I would like to know what is your opinion regarding the kind of trip I was planning to make, which consisted in a one-month daily course in Arabic. Albeit I would be staying in a university compound, I would still have to go out to eat, as well as walk around the city to visit (what is the point of travelling anywhere if you're not allowed to visit the place you're in?). Would this make me a potential target for kidnapping ? Also, I have no previous knowledge of Arabic, which - in case things turn out the wrong way - could represent yet one more disadvantage. I am looking for opinions and advice.

From: Mazen
I would say you are very safe in Sana'a - if you are sensible. Your travel around the country will be limited but we have had dozens of western students and not ONE has had a problem. The chances of something happening are very slim, the same probability that you'll be assaulted in any western society while taking a walk.

From: M. I. Whitehouse
I went to Yemen to study Arabic last summer, just after the Norwegian man was kidnapped and shot. The first couple of days I was worried about walking around Sana'a, but after that I felt safer in Sana'a than in any other city I have lived in. Most of the people who have been kidnapped were either tourists travelling in risky areas or people working for oil companies - the Norwegian was just very unlucky. Yemen is a great place to learn Arabic and there are many schools to choose from. It does not matter that you don't speak any Arabic - I know other students who arrived in Sana'a with no Arabic at all and have had no problems. My advice is not to stay in the university compound and not to be scared of walking around the city - you won't learn any Arabic otherwise. I managed to travel round Yemen for 2 weeks in September and felt perfectly safe at all times, although I didn't go anywhere risky. You cannot get travel permits to go to places like Marib, Al-Jawf and Abyan, where most of the kidnappings have taken place. Just go - Sana'a is one of the safest and most beautiful cities you can find.

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Did Sindbad the Sailor really exist? Was he from Iraq or may he also have lived in Yemen? Some people in Yemen told me that they were proud that Sindbad had lived in their mother country. They had even painted his face on the door of their workshop. And then there are many hotels and travel agencies called "Sindbad" in Yemen.

From: Saad Salah Khalis
Sindbad is not yet confirmed to be real or imaginary. He was mentioned as a legendary hero in the Arabian Nights (Alf Layla wa Layla) from Basra, south of Iraq. I really do not know if he ever lived in Yemen ... yet, when one is legendary, he/she can live wherever imagination conceives. For details, go to http://www.iraq.net/arabnights/index.html. You will enjoy it.

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My daughter was given a puzzler in school: where is the world's oldest castle found? The answer given was "Gomdan, Yemen". We have searched through the web and so far we have found no reference to it. Is there such a place? Or was it a mistake?

From: Blair Stannard, Ottawa, Canada
The name of the castle (palace) is Gumdan. It is in the 2,000-year-old city of Sana'a - capital of Yemen. It was built between 200 AD and 300 AD as a royal residence. The citadel of Al-Qasr, in Sana'a (Yemen), was erected on an ancient Sabaean site. In the 3rd century A D , the new royal residence, known as the Gumdan Palace, was constructed outside and to the west of the citadel. The city of Sana'a grew around the public buildings, which were erected first in the east and later towards the west. A nice photo of the old city of Sana'a can be found at: http://members.aol.com/yalnet/sanaaa1.jpg

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How do you use qat? What are its effects and how long do they last?

From: anonymous
Late morning: buy your qat. If you were an average Yemeni this would cost you the best part of your previous day’s wages. There are two basic kinds: branches which come in a large plastic bag, and shorter stalks (about 30cm long) wrapped in banana leaves. The latter are known as rubtas and two should be enough for a beginner.

Then have a good lunch, because you’re not going to feel hungry for a very long time. After lunch, you sit down with some friends and copious bottles of mineral water and start chewing. Start with the youngest shoots. If you’re a vegetarian you should tweak them gently to remove any insects.

Nip off the shoots one by one, crush them with your teeth and push them into your cheek with your tongue. You will gradually build up a wad in your cheek (it doesn’t matter which side). The ability to establish a large wad and keep it there for several hours is a matter of social prowess. Some Yemenis, whose cheeks have stretched over the years, can handle a wad the size of a tennis ball.

The effects? Well, if you imagine a couple of joints followed by six double espressos you’ll be on the right lines. But qat creeps up on you slowly, almost imperceptibly.

By now you’ll probably be in the midst of some deep discussion with your friends and you’ll be impressed to find that you’re far more articulate and intelligent than you ever imagined. As the sun sets, you’ll realise why the Yemenis like to put multi-coloured glass in their windows. After dark, the lights will twinkle as they’ve never twinkled before and you’ll want to touch the stars. By the end of the session you will have (a) thought of a solution to any problem you care to mention or (b) decided that it doesn’t matter anyway.

By the small hours, won’t feel ready for bed, which is why some Yemenis (though they rarely admit it) take a glass or three of whisky at this point. By lunchtime next morning you’ll be longing for a nap; your mouth will feel sore and the hyperactivity that was in your brain the previous evening may well have worked its way down to your intestines.

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I am a Swedish citizen and my partner is Canadian. We would like to get married in Yemen (in a civil ceremony). Can anyone provide information?

From: Mustapha Noman
The only obligation for arranging your marriage in Yemen is to get the visas ... If you seriously think about that the formalities can be easily arranged there.

From: Shieba Can Trading
When are you going to get married? We could help if it would be in mid-summer.

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We hear (in Germany) many things about kidnapping and car-napping. How can we protect ourselves if we go with our own cars in Yemen? Are weapons the right answer or shall we give them what they want (and lose our cars, etc.)? For our trip to Yemen I am also looking for geographical coordinates (for our GPS system) of main points in the country. Who knows how to get these?

From: Mohamed Alhaj
I have basic maps for some parts of Yemen. I use remote sensing for detecting land cover changes in Ibb city. If you are interested, please contact me so that I can send some coordinates. - Mohamed Alhaj, School of Geography, The University of Nottingham
Nottingham NG7 2RD. Telephone: 0115 9515452. Fax: 0115 9515249

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In 1978, our construction group built the Hadda Ramada Hotel in Sana'a. It was fabricated using advanced technology identical to that used to construct the Apollo and Gemini spacecraft, all American re-entry heatshields and many of the same principles are used to construct aircraft wings. Sometime later, Sana'a and the adjacent area was subjected to a very strong earthquake. I am in the process of re-starting the company that produced the Hadda hotel and I would appreciate any information you have in regard to the earthquake including the date, magnitude, epicenter, etc. Secondly, I would appreciate any information that might be available in regard to how well the Hadda Hotel endured the earthquake. Did they have to rebuild any significant portion of it?

From: Etemen (etemen@compuserve.com)
The earthquake you are probably referring to occurred in 1982. I believe it was the last major one in Yemen. I don't know where the epicenter was, but the most damage seemed to be in the Anis area about 50 kms south-southwest of Sanaa. I have met a very few people in Sanaa who say they felt vibrations around the time of the earthquake, but they were apparently very slight, and possibly the result of passing trucks rather than tectonic shifts.

In any event, the current owner of the hotel, which is now called the Hadda Hotel and is supposed to become part of the Best Western chain in the coming months, says the original building (and subsequent buildings added later) suffered absolutey no damage from the Anis quake. Nor apparently did any other buildings in or around the capital.

Let me know if you would like to talk directly to the owner.

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I plan to go to Yemen for at least a couple of months. Can anyone provide information on money matters? Is it recommendable to take cash for a longer period of stay ? I know that credit cards are not widely accepted.

From: elheran@aol.com
Well, do take enough money to support you for a while. When you change currency don't change it all at once. Do not show anyone that you have a large amount of money (especially US dollars), particularly in the street or in the market place, since some Yemenis will try to rob you without you knowing. I hope you have a great time in Yemen. You will find some of the Yemenis very hospitable and kind. And again, not to offend you, but if you are a female, don't buy anything in the marketplace without the company of a man. Some Yemenis will try to rip you off ... they think they are smart. I hope my info helps.

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